Food & Drink

Cretan Glenti at Asi Gonia — Lefteris & Manousos Kallergis

Fifteen euros buys the music and the whole table in a shepherding village most visitors never reach. Under-10s eat free.

Asi Gonia sits high in the hills between Chania and Rethymno and is one of the last genuinely pastoral villages in Crete, the sort of place where the sheep still outnumber the people by a wide margin. Lefteris and Manousos Kallergis play, and the fifteen euros is not a ticket in the way you are used to: it covers a full menu, the wine and the night, and children under ten come in free. That pricing tells you what kind of evening this is. It is a long drive on winding roads and worth every minute of it, but plan your way home before you set off, because there is nothing resembling a taxi rank up there.