Festival

Cretan Panigyri at Platanias — Manolis Kontaros

The resort strip's own village feast: lyra until dawn in the primary school yard, five euros in.

Platanias spends the summer selling cocktails to other people, and then on one Saturday in August the football club throws a panigyri for itself. It is in the primary school yard, a few streets back from the strip, and it is the real thing: Manolis Kontaros on lyra, long tables, and dancing that does not get going until well after midnight. A 22:00 start means 22:00 for the sound check and rather later for the room, so eat first and arrive late. Five euros gets you in. This is organised by A.O. Platanias, the local football club, with the municipality behind it, which tells you exactly who will be in the yard: neighbours, not tour groups. If you are staying on the coast and have wondered where the Cretan music actually happens, it is a ten-minute walk from your hotel on this one night.